[INFORMATIVE] Biodegradable Fashion: and it’s Environmental Impact

Biodegradable Fashion: and it’s Environmental Impact

By Amelia Taylor

Like many girls in the US, Lola has seen on social media the latest “ must haves” on Amazon or the newest “ IT Girl” looks and wanted to look like them so she placed a $100 order on Shein. When it arrived she tried them on and then in going to put them in her closet she saw that her clothes were filling her closet to the brim because of her monthly Shien and Amazon “hauls” that she never wore once. The common problem of overconsumption of fast fashion has been a growing problem in the last 15 years however, “fast fashion” started in the 1990s and has been on a steep incline since then, leading to thousands of deaths of those making our clothes. For example on April 24, 2013, in Dhaka, Bangladesh there was a fatal collapse of a garment factory, killing 1,134 people and injuring more. This was caused by the greed of those who owned the building who refused to listen to safety complaints of workers and by large companies that outsource cheap labor in economically unstable countries, with employees making only $2-5 US dollars a day or less, all while working 6 -7 days a week with little to no breaks.

WHAT IS FAST FASHION MADE OF
Cheap labor isn't the only exploited resource available in these countries, it's also the materials that keep the prices of textiles low, polyester and cotton are the most outsourced and exported fabrics. Polyester (polyethylene terephthalate)is essentially a thermoplastic, made with ethylene and para-xylene which are extracted from petroleum. It is mixed with another chemical called dimethyl terephthalate which melts down and produces polyester. This is dangerous because of the harsh uses of fossil fuels in its creation. Similarly, cotton requires a considerable amount of water to grow, for instance, it takes 2,700 liters of water to produce a single cotton shirt, in perspective that's about 713.265 gallons of water for just one shirt, cotton farmers also tend to rely heavily on harsh pesticides and fertilizers as well for a quicker and fuller harvest. In areas where the availability of these resources is already slim, utilizing mass amounts of them typically results in water and soil contamination or poisoning, leading to health risks or deaths of many cotton farmers globally. All of these factors contribute to the climate change crisis by the fashion industry making up at least 10% of global carbon emissions due to the doubling of textile production in the last 20 years.

WHAT ARE BIOTEXTILES
Biotextiles are fabrics composed of renewable resources such as microorganisms, bacteria, algae, and fungi root structures. These fabrics are made using bioengineering processes in which microorganisms produce biopolymers and utilize cells that can be engineered to create custom colors, sizes, density, and feel. These organisms are fed using substrates from corn or algae- turning into bio-fibres. The materials are then molded to fit specific shapes eliminating bio textile waste. Textile waste is a massive issue globally, with more than 92 million tonnes of waste being produced every year and less than 1% of it being recycled according to the EU Parliament. Recycling, reduced energy use, and overall sustainability of resources are key reasons that biotextiles can reduce the negative impacts of the fashion industry and create positive consumer habits, which can help eliminate overconsumption. For example, biotextiles are petroleum-free and do not require the same harsh use of fossil fuels, excessive water usage, or crop chemicals like pesticides or fertilizers that may leach into central water systems or oceans, which has visibly caused harm to millions of humans and animals alike, let alone the environmental impact of microplastics. Carbon emissions and energy use for biofabrics are reduced by limiting the processes required for their creation.

CONCLUSION
Biotextiles and sustainable fabrics have a bright future in the fashion industry, but it will depend on those who break down the limitations of imagination and take a bold step forward. Modern Synthesis, for example, is a biotech company with a patent-pending process for the creation of textiles by using bacteria such as nanocellulose to create a natural and animal-free material. They combine microbiology, textile science, bioengineering, and creative design to produce the future of bio-fashion. It is owned and created by designer Jen Keane and synthetic biologist Dr. Ben Reeve. There are many up-and-coming companies and designers who are pushing the limits of sustainability in fashion, and this is just one of them.

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